Best hangboarding for hypertrophy reddit. Repeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. I don't think thoughtful, well-read people are arguing that hangboarding is inherently injurious to new climbers. Here is an example of a high-volume split used by some juiced redditor to get big. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. At least for me doing 3 - 8 reps with no hangs works the best, since you crank out the reps quickly. Third session back to hangboarding I hit 10 kg pr on 5 sec hangs, so I feel like it translates pretty well. I want to primarily focus on hypertrophy, definition and lose some stubborn mid section fat. They can be adapted for any level of climber. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. I wonder if I should at least maintain some hangboard training for open hand grip? Curious as to how well 1 arm 20mm tension block weighted no hangs correlate to 20mm edge hangboarding. I see a lot of people, both here and in real life, looking to start hangboarding but feeling too… In the end, the best way to train climbing movements is climbing and climbing, and there aren't any shortcuts for that. Power Company Podcast and Steve Maisch) The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. I've used this protocol for literally everything. Whey protein isolate is the best protein supplement for climbers, given its ultra-clean, low-calorie, and high-leucine characteristics. Maybe not stronger holds but you’ll keep the strength you do have for longer. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too high and result in injury if you're not being careful. Do which ever best fits your schedule and modulate intensity accordingly. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? 129 votes, 79 comments. Gains are slow, and I also don't feel like I'm Improved my 1 rep max by 7. If you spend all your time climbing, you'll eventually hit a finger strength plateau. Strength training programs that train high-repetitions and low-weight or high-weight / low-repetitions have both been found to stimulate hypertrophy over a period of 6 weeks, however strength gains were Best books you've read that have helped you on your body building journey? Currently reading Bigger Leaner Stronger and loving it. That's how I've found to optimize things as I've progressed. If you don't progress with some scheme described above you are either super strong already or you should think about fixing your climbing training on wall because thats where 90% of your training load shall happen. e. It is worth noting I will be hangboarding twice a week during this time. Beginners ususally experience rapid improvement just by climbing. However, hangboarding is a pretty effective way to train power-endurance and endurance of your upper body. The repeaters volume looks similar to what you would see is effective for most hypertrophy repetition ranges volume. I've got some rock rings at home that I'd like to use on days I can't make the gym, but how does one get sufficiently warmed up for hangboarding without climbing? With Natural Hypertrophy's permission last year, I compiled all of his programs and some other general lifting guidance that he had written out in a few of his video descriptions. Whether you subscribe to the Anderson Brother's hypertrophy theories or recruitment through max hangs (Powerclimbingcompany?), hangboarding is putting a lot of stress on your fingers in order to make them stronger. 4-6-8-10-8-6-4) hang 5 seconds, rest 10 seconds, 2 min break after 'can't My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. A general guideline is that you want to hit each muscle group 2 times, or more, per week to maximize hypertrophy . I've tried it, but I could never commit to it. Are short rest times (<3min) beneficial for hypertrophy in a special, unique way? First of all, I know that resting at least 3-5 minutes between sets is the optimal amount of time to fully restore ATP and thus provide the best combination of intensity & volume for long term progress and hypertrophy/strength gains - especially for compound I've found the best for hypertrophy is working more frequently, more volume, less intensity. I obviously wanted to keep it really slow to not fuck up my fingers (I have a few years of calisthenics on me) and did the 3-6-9-12 system by bechtel. I've been following the intermediate Eva Lopez hangboarding routine that is two days per week and put big emphasis on resting at least 48 hours between sessions. For context I’m (20M) 6’1” (1. However, all three protocols led to similar quad hypertrophy. Created by u/The_Rick_Sanchez & u/Bottingbuilder. The jug would only come in handy to practice resting on (ie 10 sec on hangboard If you need specific finger strength work, work those on the wall before you start hangboarding. Maybe not the best for strength, but it would be a help for endurance and lactate threshold training your forearm muscles. I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. Ideally something like the RP app but without the huge price. Hey, i was just browsing around the internet the other day and saw a few theories on how the rep/rest/hang ratios all work. So if you have done both types of training, what are your: weighted 1 arm hangs (please include edge size, whether you are just lifting off the Hello everyone, I want to hear thoughts on a rather uncomplicated routine I could stick by. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Nowadays researchers (e. a lot. Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. Apr 26, 2025 · Dr. Though originally intended for Nov 24, 2024 · What is the best workout split for muscle growth? The worst? Here, I rank 7 of the most popular workout splits to find out which are worth your time. 5 kg each hand on a 20 mm edge. Hangboarding has been a great supplement. My quads feel like they've been set on fire after hack squats 😂 Reply reply more repliesMore repliesMore repliesMore repliesMore replies AnyOneImportant • -Remember: Hangboarding is a TINY volume of our overall weekly time under tension/stimulus! I have the feeling everyone keeps forgetting this over and over and over again. The fast concentric and fast eccentric conditions ultimately resulted in more tension at long muscle lengths than the moderate-speed condition. I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. You will learn how to build an amazing program for yourself and dispel a lot of bad training and nutrition information. The authors seem a little Apr 9, 2018 · My thoughts before starting Eric Horst’s article with them suggested that these helped with increases in hypertrophy. Since all his metrics were max strength it would be interesting to have a pro powerlifter try light squatting every day and see what happens as a comparison. Sometimes people refer to the rounding of the edge as well, where the consensus seems to be that rounded edges are making the "effective depth" less, and thus harder to hang from compared to a You may want to look into hangboarding but just as rehab. Start hangboarding when the climbing you are doing is not adequately targeting and challenging your finger strength. I ran it for my first year and had great results. Those who do combine the sports, how do you segment your training throughout the week? Even for general training and hypertrophy I would recommend going high intensity low reps for deadlifts and low intensity high reps for RDL's. I saw a videon with Magnus where he showed how he trained, and it was a lot of crimping. I would sooner suggest you look into building a home spray wall or getting a full blown training board so you can actually climb without having to drive so far [–] NeverBeenStung 1 point2 points3 points1 day ago (0 children) I can relate to your perspective on finger strength being a weak link. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. So for 4/week I would recommend full-body or upper-lower. On an 8mm, I can hang +10lbs overhead, and about 85lbs per arm for 8mm no hangs. But then recently saw a study where a 3-minute rest period yielded better Hypertrophy results than the 1-minute rest period. Reply reply [deleted] • My hang numbers were almost identical whether I'm hangboarding or doing no hangs. I started hangboarding again, and after two sessions the tweak is pretty much gone. I’m ready to switch to a hypertrophy PPL 6 day/week routine. For context, I'm a 31 y/o guy, 184 cm (6"), hovering around 80 kg (176 lbs), approx. Well, Renaissance Periodization says that the hypertrophy phase should be exercises that build the most muscle in order to make the main exercises better. I definitely don't think the 1 minute dead hang on jugs is worth your while. Because climbing is a skill sport versus a strength sport, many people can achieve high levels (5. Use common sense (bias to lower reps on hard compounds, higher on easy isolation for example) and more importantly, try a variety over time and see what gives you your best results. I’m taller and a bit heavier than most climbers at 6’4” and 195lbs, so have identified finger strength to weight as a weakness (one of many to work on). All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best calnick0 • A general rule of thumb seems to be climbing V5/6 consistently before hangboarding. To medical professionals the results of following a "Training for hypertrophy" routine is called "Sarcoplasmic, muscle, hypertrophy. I would like to know which of these programs you have tried and which one has worked best for you in terms of gaining muscle mass. Train non-climbing muscles on a separate day or after climbing. For hangboarding max hangs have always worked best for me. After a week of hangboarding twice a day, I never felt the need to tape my fingers anymore. To fit this into my climbing routine I do normally which is two days on and one day off, I used the hangboarding as a warm up to board climbing on my small home wall, which is a 45 degrere woody thats 6ft by 9ft. Technically, almost any rep range CAN cause hypertrophy. I would guess it's a decent exercise for forearm hypertrophy which can be beneficial to long term strength (so you would want to do this at the start of your periodization). Finger strength is rarely the limiting factor in my climbs anymore, been doing it for 2 months now and I still keep seeing benefits. Something I can easily log each set/reps and preferably something that auto regulates when to + the weight based on what I log. " Medical professionals use "Myofibrillar, muscle, hypertrophy" for the results of following a "Training for strength" routine. I tested my max Thoughts on my upper day for hypertrophy? submitted 1 hour ago by anihalatologist Running a 4 day upper/lower, bodyweight for compounds and weights for isolation. Don't do anything crazy like max hangs just use a comfortable edge for a few sets. L-sits, hollow holds and planks probably help hypertrophy a bit, but not much. In addition, gains made by climbing are still better than what you'll get from hangboarding, so it really shouldn't take priority over climbing. But I have the feeling, that i am a bit stuck at the moment. Its a lot more similar to a typical gym hypertrophy stimulus because it's a concentric/eccentric exercise. I also got a DXA scan before and after my diet too, to track how much fat/lean mass I lost on a carb-cycling diet. I have done also max hangs and repeaters in the past, but hasn't really seen the results to be as great as I'd wanted. I've seen noticeable gains over the years since I started working out, but over the past several months I've definitely plateaued. This is true for min edge hangs as well. Your tendons might not be ready for the stress at this level; a hangboard really is a tool for when you have plateaued your strength gains from just climbing and improving technique isn't helping. If you’re stronger, hangboarding on a climbing day, before climbing, is fine. Hello! I could use some advice on creating a new 4-day hypertrophy split for myself. . Best rep range - At least 3 sets of at Instead of buying a pull up bar, can I use a hangboard for regular pull ups and later on use the hangboard for more intensive training? News, articles, personal pictures, videos & advice on everything related to bodybuilding - nutrition, supplementation, training, contest preparation, and more. 18 votes, 25 comments. Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. diff being you can start with less than bw. But every program has pros and cons, and the best muscle-building program for an elite bodybuilder may not be the best for you. I believe that my linear newbie gains are done. What’s an appropriate warm-up for a hangboard workout? Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. I use a modified version of the RCTM's intermediate. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. However, most optimal is different. Often on climbs around 5. Now muscle / strength is increasing best when max, hypertrophy and endurance loads are applied. 85m) and weigh around 190 lbs (84kg). Heard and read a lot of conflicting things on the amount of rest period in between reps for Hypertrophy training. I do 6s on, 4s off for reps. So training for hypertrophy by doing barbell finger rolls will make you stronger in the long run, no one is saying that its the best training for short term performance, but 1 year out, it will be more beneficial than campusing. Quite honestly, as long you are approaching failure, the rep range generally isnt the biggest issue. I do it closer to the bottom of the spectrum (30% BW) for One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. 13 outdoors and v8-9 max indoors. My For natural lifters who have established a solid base of strength (intermediate level or beyond), what is the best approach for hypertrophy? I've read lots of different approaches regarding frequency, volume, and intensity. Holy grail of hangboarding Guys, I think I found it! I was just going on with my routine doing the No-hangs protocol from Emil Abrahamson's recent video. The Assisted 15mm Edge One Armers drove me into a quite stubborn Plateau. Where do you all place hangboarding in your routine? Is it better to place it on the same day as hard bouldering session or do it on a rest day (which is most likely sandwiched between two days of climbing)? In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. May 15, 2023 · Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. I just found it too boring! My current finger strength metrics are: (I weigh 65kg - 179cm) ~+50kg on lattice 20mm rung (possibly more, tested Dec. Climbers kinda need strong fingers. Nov 21, 2022 · These three core hangboarding exercises work strength, endurance, and injury prevention. The argument is more "hangboarding is unnecessary (and occasionally detrimental) to new climbers because all the positive adaptations of hangboarding can be induced by thoughtfully organizing a climbing routine on the wall". Get started today! A place for for those who believe that proper diet and intense training are all you need to build an amazing physique. I may be wrong but it's my understanding that 5-day splits tend to be less advantageous for hypertrophy due to the nature of protein synthesis, though. Many really strong climbers do hard bouldering, campusboarding, and hangboarding for multiple days in a row. Nay. I'm in my mid-30's and I've only been working out for a few years. I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. Total volume has more to do with it than anything. I boulder for 5 to 10 Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. There are a few reasons 8-12 is generally accepted as the best. for pure hypertrophy, anything with about 5+ reps and under about 20 reps is totally fine. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. I’m not a sports scientist but where in any other hypertrophy protocol for any other muscle is a 20 second isometric hold used to stimulate hypertrophy? Or does it make more sense that the forearms, like any other muscle, are going to respond to a hypertrophy protocol that looks more like 8-12 reps at 60-80% of max effort per rep. Yves gravelle has luck with it. I continued to improve for a long time using the linear approach, just increasing the loads. I'm a 17y/o girl on a comp team, I've been climbing for five years, low-end 5. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. (20) If you're more experienced - invest in hangboarding a few times a week (even at the expense of SOME climbing) to get focused stimulus and NEVER STOP investing in hand strength - it will always be useful. I've seen the best results this way. I think a good cycle is to do repeaters on your shoulders seasons (exiting and entering), a large volume of hypertrophy work which is NOT hangboarding in your off season and focus on max hangs during your season. For me, the routine actually did wonders for my climbing. Dec 6, 2022 · In general, the volume for max hangs is insufficient to generate good amounts of muscular hypertrophy even though it definitely challenges recruitment substantially like most strength work. Rest times for Hypertrophy - 30-90 seconds between sets and exercises As long as you need to recover in order to hit the target reps with the weight you're using. When all the moves and crimps you have access to feel too easy (or tear your skin up before your fingers get enough stimulus), then hangboarding makes the most sense. Hypertrophy, the golden goose. So read through and learn what the best evidence-based coaches and researchers recommend for hypertrophy. I've been actively hangboarding for about 8 years now and of course, I started off with the traditional 7-3 repeaters protocol. Jan 9, 2025 · Hangboarding is only useful as a supplement for developing finger strength when projecting, it isnt exercise or fun on its own. As part of my warmup I always include hangboarding with working down to the smallest edges Most of the motivation for hangboarding has been to strengthen my fingers and avoid injury. I’ve recently noticed a large disparity in hangboard strength between myself and many of the people I climb with. I have an embarrassingly weak upper body (working on it!), and my Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. So I'd say I'm intermediate - not a novice, but far from advanced. Like people have said, this is usually better than removing climbing for hangboard We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. If rest times can be made shorter to increase hypertrophy, so too can volume irrespective of rest times between sets. Im more focused on bodybuilding. Compared to others, my "finger strength" numbers from hangboarding have always been lower, yet I’ve climbed several 13d routes, bouldered V9, have gotten very close of V10, etc. As you said below the deadlift recruits more muscles compared to other lifts, which is exactly why its a great exercise to go heavy and explosive on. I was able to push my half crimp hangs from +14kg to +24kg in this time. What are the best exercises for ab hypertrophy? I get that abs are made in the kitchen and all that, but if they aren't significantly hypertrophied they'll look pretty sad and flat. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I'm using the Metolius Prime Rib with a 38mm, 23 and a 15mm edge. This is especially true if you haven't been climbing for years and years. 2021) 5 sec one arm hang on beastmaker 14mm edge I climb on the moonboard pretty Hypertrophy training is rarely specifically targeted in large muscle groups, because, in your legs, for instance, the extra muscle is rarely necessary. This is a good thread with a fairly simple PPL hypertrophy routine, lot's of helpful information in the post and comments. I've experience a lot of tendonitis and have to limit explosive work. g. Aside from my usual-- "is hangboarding your best use of time" context question (don't know anything about OP-- here are some thoughts that may help. I think most people add stuff to hangboarding because just the hangs seems to simple to be effective. Can anyone recommend one that is simple and laid out to where I can put it into my workout template and start today? But that doesn’t mean either can only be trained in certain parts of that range optimally. I am evaluating different hypertrophy programs offered by some well-known trainers. When I'm at the gym I only hangboard after doing lots of easy bouldering to warm up. Yeah I think if your proportions are suited well for them they can be great. Does training one help with the other? I have looked up past questions regarding no hangs but haven't seen any posts strictly comparing numbers. t (time under tension)) I have been using the beastmaker app for about 3 Sep 10, 2024 · Hypertrophy training is the style of exercise designed specifically to stimulate muscle growth. Slower and higher rep schemes have work well for me to target the muscles well without putting undo stress on joins. Therefore, while climbing could cause growth plate injuries, it is a reasonable risk if the kid is a climber, especially if the kid has supervision (a coach). His approach seems to be low Whats the best routine youve ran to build size? Ive ran 531 BBB and BtM, ive done nsuns, and upper lower. I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. Overall I would say it's about quality and not quantity. Recently I've read "Bigger, Leaner, Stronger" by Michael Matthews and he claims that the 4-6 Rep Range is perfect for building Muscle and backs it with tons of studies. Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home. If you want to stimulate climbing muscles and get stronger, figure out some other training to do so you aren't overloading on the tendons. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. Hangboarding for extremely weak fingers - large edge, pulley system or no-hangs? I'm a 30-something year old man. I'm not saying rest 15 minutes between sets but if one set is particularly taxing on both your muscles and cardiovascular / respiratory systems, taking 2-5 minutes isn't going to hurt at all. Can't imagine going back to doing "leg days". It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. Jason Cholewa draws on his PhD in Exercise Physiology to review best bodybuilding programs If you want to build muscle efficiently, you need a good hypertrophy training program. Because the stimulus is so controlled I'd rather gain strength through hangboarding (my hangboard sessions are sub-max btw) which means that my fingers are rarely at their limit while bouldering. I had a similar pain in the past so I took a break from climbing for a few weeks and starting a LIGHT hangboard routine. I climb in a variety of styles + project a lot at my physical limit. 531 Decided to run 531 BBB because it's been out for a while and had a lot of testimonies, had a hypertrophy edge, had the deloads built into it, and seemed to have a decent slow but steady weight progression. Brad Schoenfeld) suggest that the best way to measure the progress when it comes to muscle gains (hypertrophy) is counting reps that are close to failure and that's the thing you should increase in time if your goal is hypertrophy. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. I didnt get too much bigger with any previous routine i ran, i have ran proper bulks with the routines too. I had a side goal of wanting to hit 5 reps at 250 on the bench (the max I have hit is 210 at 5 reps. TL;DR: Do any of you train climbing, long distance running, and weightlifting simultaneously? I have found many resources for training both distance running and weightlifting, but not many for training both with climbing. Im having trouble finding a solid routine to run to build size primarily. r/naturalbodybuilding Current search is within r/naturalbodybuilding Remove r/naturalbodybuilding filter and expand search to all of Reddit May 23, 2024 · Whether you’re new to hangboarding or looking to up your training game, this guide will walk you through the process step by step. This develops fitness while developing climbing skills, and most people find it more fun than hangboarding (aka the purpose of climbing). I’ve been climbing for ~3 years and have done a single V9 benchmark on the 2016 Moonboark, as well as a few V8s. Sure it trains a lot of muscles, but does it train any of them effectively? No. All on the 38mm "edge" for the last six weeks After doing this for a couple cycles and reading and re-reading different programs, my brain has decided to not absorb information as easily on this anymore and I had a question pop into my head what other people were doing. Hangboarding over the past 2 months has definitely improved my finger strength though. This way, you’re working on developing technique while also building fitness. Is one better than the other? What is too little or too much? I I made a spreadsheet of Renaissance Periodization's Hypertrophy Recommendations by Muscle Group Can anyone recommend an intermediate hypertrophy PPL? I have been on a strength program for a while. Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. 12, there are very few jugs unless the route is super roofy or long. The best way to injure yourself (and the worst way to progress) on a hangboard is through overuse. I've been bouldering ~3 times per week for ~2 years and I cannot hang 20mm bodyweight in half-crimp (or barely hang it for like 2 seconds on a good day). trueHave you ever seen Emil Abrahamsson's video on sub-bodyweight hangboarding protocol that's referred to in other training companies/articles as "minimums" or something like that? It's 10 sets of 10 second hangs at 30%-50% BW with 50 seconds rest between sets. The routine also coincided with the start of the outdoor climbing season, so I would do the routine as a warm up before going out climbing. Dave says two days per week of hangboarding is the minimum to make any gains. The strength phase is actually doing those main exercises. So I adapted, and changed my approach to Hangboard Training accordingly. That seems like a useful form of training because it seems like a solid stretch and the stretch seems to be a very potent stimulus for growth My forearm is a bit of a priority. Right now I'm doing strength training (roughly based on 5x5) in the buildup to my hockey season 3x per week. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. So how do you choose? I've been climbing for roughly three years now, and in that time I've never done any properly regimented hangboarding. While thinking all of this it occurred to me that there should be one excercise which would make your recruitment strong So as you can see, I didn't really feel like I was at that stage where hangboarding was going to be a regular part of my training, but now it looks like the best alternative thus far if gyms close down again or I think its too risky to go. But hangboarding isn't as important for kids because they aren't often limited by finger strength, and finger strength comes naturally to them anyway over time. Forearm Exp In this respect, hangboarding really helped in kickstarting that basic strength required to utilize them on the route. For the longest time I always followed 60-90 seconds in between sets when repping 8-10 times. Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. My idea is a full body split since I prefer to go 3 times per week. ( I do a strictly hangboard only day) Whats your go time for hangboarding (total time and T. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. As our gyms are still closed, I started hangboarding to maintain the little bit of strength I had built in 6 months of bouldering. For hypertrophy? it's like doing power cleans for hypertrophy. The 5 main methods to achieve maximal hypertrophy - some of these I don't quite get. RDLs and good mornings are way more effective for hamstring/posterior chain. I too went through a phase of strict hangboarding + weight loss back in 2017, and my numbers (both bodyweight and finger strength) are quite similar to yours. The last paragraph was very interesting. If you don't already have pretty strong tendons, the chance of getting injured is high. General strength training is nice because it makes you feel like you're doing something, but it has very little benefit for hangs or for climbing. Hey guys looking for a solid 5 day pre made hypertrophy program on an app that I can download on my phone. IMO your 1st bullet is the single best reason that hangboarding should be started just about ASAP for any climber who is dedicated to long-term improvement and is responsible enough to educate themselves on how to HB safely. More generally, a recent systematic review found that rep cadence doesn't have a particularly reliable effect on hypertrophy results. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. If you have a severe muscular deficit anywhere though, hypertrophy training may still be a good idea. Bench press and rows really aren’t going to do much for your climbing strength, especially if you’re doing s hypertrophy routine. However, it still seems to me that the general consensus is that 8-12 Reps are optimal for hypertrophy. 12<) without hangboarding. there seems to be a few theories around right now: hang 10 seconds, rest 5s, X8-10 reps, 2 minute break hang 8-12 seconds, rest 1 min, 4 reps, 5 minute break pyramid building with the first (i. Im a fan of climbing stuff but not a rock climber. Vegan athletes can best support tendon and muscles recovery with Powerplex plant-based protein. I know people who have significantly better hangboard data (like, double my weight) but haven’t reached the same outdoor grades. On an 18mm edge, 2 hand hangboarding I'm at +50lbs (150lbs BW). I thought the last slide was interesting about the progression from beginner to advanced best follows full body --> upper/lower --> PPL --> full body. If you want to gain muscle mass, this is how. I imagine it is because hypertrophy work can coexist easily within various forms of training. If you had to narrow on two supplemental excercises to create gains in the forearms what would they be. So think about what you want from climbing. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Tried to design it around the concept of antagonistic muscle pairs, or atleast close to it. This wiki aims to answer just about any question you may have about hypertrophy training. Hi all, I'm looking for advice on how to start hangboarding and when to fit it into my climbing routine. How to hangboard for strength? What grips and edge size? How long should you hang? One arm or two? You need to know the answers to these questions and we've However when we talk about hangboarding we almost exclusively talk about edge depth as the only parameter determining the amount of weight one can hang. For example, I've seen people advocating the work of Mike Matthews. Hypertrophy (increased size of skeletal muscle cells) typically occurs within one to two months of performing a strength training program 10. One of my best Jan 11, 2024 · If you’re newer to climbing, it’s probably best to perform on-wall strength and power endurance training rather than hangboard repeaters. On off days I'm playing cricket, and most days I try and do some mobility and flexibility. Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. Now let's take a look at the example of progress which you have described - adding weight. The best rep range can depend on the person, exercise, and even Last note: hangboarding helps with finger strength but it takes a long time to take effect and not everyone enjoys doing it. I switch depending on what sports and activities I'm doing. But for hypertrophy the movement that has the most stability with the biggest ROM will always be best I think. Details may vary depending on training age. I added accessory to arms never saw growth. Usually most people with weak crimps would do best to work at least 3-5 crimp climbs per session and they will start improving again. As for 18mm no hangs I'm at 100lbs per arm for about 7sec. - Weekly schedules (Meh) There's good reason to have a weekly schedule, in that our society is built about this repeating cycle. outsideonline. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. I think that finger strength is definitely a limiting factor in my climbing, particularly max finger strength. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). Discuss NANBF/IPE, INBF/WNBF, OCB, ABA, INBA/PNBA, and IFPA bodybuilding, noncompetitive bodybuilding, diets for the natural lifters, exercise routines and more! All are welcome here but this sub is intended for intermediate to advanced lifters, we ask that beginners utilize In terms of hangboarding, personally, I think every day is a bit excessive. Eventually, your fingers will strengthen up and pain should subside. Otherwise, just run a strength phase - compound lifts and lower reps (<8). I find that despite my interest in training a wide variety of athletic qualities, hypertrophy training is always something I circle back to with enthusiasm. I'm leaning toward plate pinches and heavy finger rolls but am open to other ideas and happy to buy any small devices if you think there's a better way to train pinch strength and experience gains. Not to downplay hypertrophy training and we could all use larger grip squeezers, but just some devil's advocate here to stir the pot. 15-20% BF, have been learning to lift for two months with You’d probably get more out of hangboarding than your strength routine. I've been hangboarding on and off for about 3 years now, and after a winter of hard bouldering, I have a little tweak in a finger. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. Why is that? I would definitely second the 7:3 repeaters, look on the Crimpd app from Lattice for some ideas (I use the 70% workout for power endurance). Many of the most highly regarded coaches provide conflicting approaches. Best hangboard protocol for Hypertrophie? Hi, i train with the Lattice Crimpd App since the first lockdown and mostly used the 85% Max Hang protocol and from time to time the 40% endurance protocol. My chest is bigger now than ever, and I don't even BB bench anymore. It may matter but not enough to where it would be wise to always limit load and total volume in favor of shorter rest. Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to adapt by increasing in sizeaka, hypertrophy. ). For most people it’s best to only hangboard (max hangs) on non-climbing days, assuming you also don’t climb the day before or after hangboarding. u. For context, new to body building, did my first show a month ago and gearing up for an April show potentially if I can get enough growth. Strength = neurological adaptations * muscle cross sectional area (hypertrophy) Hypertrophy is predicated on: Maximal tension Muscle damage Metabolic stress My thoughts before starting were that since the strength equation is basically neurological adaptations * muscle cross Most people will suggest either running a hypertrophy phase and then a strength phase (and then a power phase), but for just starting to lift, whatever you do will be effective in most areas. I'd recommend taking it serious at first then gradually moving into power/campus work but continuing to climb intermittently. mvnr cmat xqdppk ijiyd ncdsb lvst ggymrst haolr wnji fev